Picture this. You want to fence off one corner of your garage to keep the good tools, the bikes, and the camping gear behind a locked panel, away from prying hands and out of the way of the car. You have looked at mesh panels online, the price is right, and the only thing holding you back is one quiet worry: can I actually put this in myself?
Yes, you can. The Mesh Storage panel, post, and gate system is designed from the ground up for self-installation by everyday Australians, not tradespeople. There are no welds to make, no concrete to pour, and no specialist gear to hire. If you can use a cordless drill and read a tape measure, you have everything you need to get this done over a weekend, or in a couple of hours for a small run.
This guide walks you through the whole job in the order the system is actually built. You start with the gate, because everything else lines up off it, then you work outward along the run with panels and posts. Every step below links to its own how-to video, and most include a downloadable PDF guide, so you can follow along exactly.
Before you start: what you are building
The Mesh Storage system is modular. You mount a gate, then clip welded mesh panels between steel posts to form a wall, a cage, or a partition in whatever shape suits your space. The core parts are:
- Welded mesh panels, the wall sections themselves.
- 40mm steel posts, the uprights that hold everything together, including a gate post the gate swings from.
- Gate frame, gate panel, and hinges, which assemble into your lockable access point.
- Connector clips, which lock the panels to the posts without bolts or welding.
- A key lock, gate stop, and bumper, which make the gate secure and closing cleanly.
You can build it two ways. A fixed installation anchors the posts and gate post to the floor or wall for maximum strength and security. A freestanding installation uses feet or base plates so nothing is drilled into the structure, which is ideal for renters or anyone who cannot make permanent holes. More on choosing between these in Step 2.
Tools checklist
You very likely already own everything on this list. Nothing here needs to be hired.
- Cordless drill or impact driver
- Spirit level (a 600mm level is ideal)
- Tape measure
- Pencil or marker
- Rubber mallet
- Appropriate masonry or timber drill bits (depending on your surface)
- Safety glasses and gloves

Parts checklist
Before you begin, lay out your parts and count them against your plan so you are not stopping mid-job:
- Gate frame, gate panel, and hinges
- Key lock, gate stop, and bumper
- Mesh panels (quantity from your layout plan)
- Steel posts, including a gate post and a post for each panel join
- Connector clips
- Floor or wall anchors (for a fixed install)
Everything on both checklists is available in one place. Shop panels, posts, connectors, and gates so your order arrives complete and you are not waiting on a missing part.
Step 1: Plan your layout
This is the single most important step, and the one most people are tempted to skip. Five minutes here saves you from ordering too few panels, ending a run in an awkward gap, or discovering the gate does not line up.
Use the free Mesh Storage Cost Calculator to map your space. Enter the length of the wall or area you want to enclose and the tool tells you exactly how many panels and posts you need, where the gate goes, and what it will cost. Sketch the result on paper or print it out so you have a reference while you work.
A quick tip: measure your space twice and account for any obstacles like pipes, power points, or a roller door track before you finalise the plan.
Use our free layout calculator before you start to make sure your panels fit perfectly.
Step 2: Prepare your area and choose your fixing method
With your plan done and your parts counted, set up your work area. Clear the floor where the gate post and panels will sit, sweep away any debris so your level readings are accurate, and keep your connector clips somewhere handy.
Now decide how you will fix the system down, because this depends on your surface and whether you want a fixed or freestanding setup:
- On concrete. Most Australian garages and warehouses have a concrete slab. Drill into the slab with a masonry bit, insert the appropriate anchors, and fix the base down firmly. Concrete gives you the strongest, most secure result.
- On timber. Floorboards or a timber deck take a timber-rated fixing. Drill pilot holes and fasten the base directly into the timber.
- On tiled or finished floors. If you would rather not drill into tiles, or you are renting and cannot make holes, choose a freestanding configuration with weighted bases or feet, so the structure stands on its own with nothing drilled in. This is the go-to option for apartments, rentals, and anyone who needs to take the system with them when they move.
Not sure which setup suits your floor type? Contact our team for a free recommendation.
The installation: follow these 8 steps in order
The system is built gate-first. You assemble and hang the gate, make it lock and close cleanly, then tie in the panel beside it and work along the rest of the run. Follow the steps in order, and use the video and PDF on each one for the close-up detail.
Step 1: Connect the gate panel
Your gate arrives as a frame and a mesh panel that join together to form the finished gate. Start here by connecting the gate panel to its frame, following the video so the panel sits square and the fixings are seated correctly. Getting this right first means the rest of the gate assembly lines up cleanly.
Step 2: Fit the gate post and hinges
Next, set the gate post and mount the hinges. The gate post is the upright the gate swings from, so it needs to be plumb and secured firmly to your floor or wall using the fixing method you chose in Step 2 above. Fit the hinges at the marked positions, then check the post sits perfectly upright with your spirit level before you move on. A post that leans even slightly will stop the gate closing evenly later.
▸ Watch the video ▸ Download the PDF guide
Step 3: Install the gate panel
With the gate post plumb and the hinges mounted, hang the assembled gate onto the hinges. Support the weight as you locate it, then check it swings freely through its full arc without dropping or catching. The video shows how to seat the gate on the hinges and confirm the swing.
▸ Watch the video ▸ Download the PDF guide
Step 4: Install a key lock
Fit the key lock so your partition becomes genuinely secure. Position the lock body and striker as shown, then test that the key turns smoothly and the bolt engages every time you close the gate. This is what turns the enclosure into a lockable storage zone for valuables, bikes, or controlled stock.
Step 5: Install the gate stop and bumper
The gate stop and bumper give the gate something firm to close against and stop it swinging past the frame. Fit them at the closing edge so the gate meets a positive stop, which keeps the lock aligned and stops rattle. Follow the video and PDF for correct placement.
▸ Watch the video ▸ Download the PDF guide
Step 6: Adjust the gate gap
Fine-tune the gap between the gate and its post so the gate sits even and closes cleanly. Small adjustments at the hinges square everything up and remove any rub or uneven gap. Take your time here, because a well-adjusted gap is the difference between a gate that feels solid and one that catches.
▸ Watch the video ▸ Download the PDF guide
Step 7: Install the panel near the gate
With the gate hung and adjusted, install the first mesh panel next to the gate. This panel ties the gate assembly into the rest of the run, so line it up with the gate post, clip it in place with the connector clips, and give the clips a gentle tap with the rubber mallet to seat them. Check the panel stays square before you continue.
▸ Watch the video ▸ Download the PDF guide
Step 8: Install panels and posts along the run
Now work along the rest of the run. Stand each 40mm post, then clip a mesh panel between it and the previous post, using a panel as your spacing guide. Check each post is plumb with your spirit level as you go, and step back every few panels to confirm the line is staying straight and level. Repeat until your partition or cage is complete.
▸ Watch the video ▸ Download the PDF guide
Common installation mistakes to avoid
A few small errors trip up first-time installers. Watch for these and your finish will look professional:
- Skipping the calculator. Guessing your panel count is the number one cause of a half-finished run or a wasted return trip. Plan first.
- Rushing the gate. The whole system lines up off the gate, so take your time with the gate post, hinges, and gap adjustment before you start on the panels.
- Not checking level. A post that is even slightly out of plumb pulls every panel after it out of line. Check level at every post, not just the first.
- Uneven floors ignored. If your slab slopes, note it during planning and adjust as you go rather than discovering it at the last panel.
- Forgetting obstacles. Pipes, power points, and door tracks need to be accounted for in the planning stage, not worked around halfway through.
Want to see it done right the first time? Every step above links to its own video and PDF guide, or view the full Installation Guide and video library.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need a permit to install mesh panels?
For a freestanding or non-structural partition inside your own garage, shed, or unit, you generally do not need a permit, because the system is not attached to the building's structure. Strata and body corporate rules can apply in apartments, so check with your building manager if you live in a strata property. When in doubt, confirm with your local council or strata before you begin.
Can I install on concrete?
Yes. Concrete is the ideal surface for a fixed installation. Drill into the slab with a masonry bit, insert anchors, and fix the bases down. It gives you the strongest result.
Can I install without drilling into the floor?
Yes. Choose a freestanding configuration with weighted bases. Nothing is drilled into the floor, which makes it perfect for renters and tiled surfaces.
Do I need any trade experience?
No. The system is designed for DIY installation. If you can use a drill, a level, and a tape measure, you can install it yourself.
How long does it take?
A small run can be done in a couple of hours. A larger garage partition or cage is comfortably a weekend job for one person.
Ready to start?
You now have the full picture, from planning to the final locked gate. The system is built to be straightforward, and the planning tools, videos, and PDF guides are there as a safety net at every step.
- Plan your setup with the free Cost Calculator
- Shop mesh panels
- Shop gates
- View the full Installation Guide and video library
Use our free layout calculator before you start to make sure your panels fit perfectly, then order everything you need in one place at Mesh Storage.